HiLetgo 2pcs TDA2050 Mono Audio Amplifier Module Digital Mono Amplifier Board AMP DC/AC 5-24V Output 5W-120W for Speaker

did not try it yet but for the money you could not even start to build one. the output is probably IPP [instant peak power] for the 120 watts but you probably get 10 to 20 real watts depending on the supply.v anyway will uodate my review if need be.

Repurposed a bass speaker, that was being fed from a line level source from a surround sound system that wanted a powered subwoofer. This did the trick, and allowed me to individually set the bass level as well. Took off the cover, drilled a hole, fed the switch through, put on a nice cap, and fed it power from an old laptop power supply.

The TDA2050 is able to provide up to 35 W true RMS power into a 4 ohm load at THD = 0%, VS = ±18 V, f = 1 kHz and up to 32 W into an 8 ohm load at THD = 10%, VS = ±22 V, f = 1 kHz.The TDA2050 has a supply voltage range of ±4.5 to ±25 volts.The TDA2050 is a monolithic integrated circuit that is designed to be used as a class AB audio amplifier. It is known for its high power capability and low harmonic and crossover distortion. Some of its power capabilities include:35 W true RMS power: Into a 4 ohm load at THD = 0%, VS = ±18 V, f = 1 kHz32 W: Into an 8 ohm load at THD = 10%, VS = ±22 V, f = 1 kHz50 W music power: Into a 4 ohm load over 1 sec at VS = 22.5 V, f = 1 kHz

This item did amplify ausio, I'll give it that much. BUT, there was no way I could find a setting tor a symmetrical sine wave on the output. It was always distorted with a non-symmetrical sine wave. This wa at the recommended 24VDC supply level. Also, 5W out is a joke. While testing it, it was barely warm, then a crack sound and it quit. One to the trash!I can't recommend this for any type of use.Update:I decided to replace the IC. There is also absolutely no thermal compound between the TDA2050 and the heatsink. Just another negative item for this review. It's a pity, as this could be a good amplifier with a bit better design and assembly.

I used one of these as a linear solid state power amplifier. Depending on how hot the input is, you may have to add significant impedance to prevent overload which may cause nasty distortion above 65% on the volume pot. I measured 44KΩ impedance before working my way up to an extra 3MΩ above that to manage the overloading coming from my guitar amp modeler at 100% output.Another thing to mention is the power rating. If you look up the TDA2050 chip datasheet, you will see that the max RMS wattage is ~32W with a somewhat reasonable THD. It is highly unlikely that you will see anything above this without unacceptable audio quality. 120W peak is highly unlikely and realistically the description for this product should include RMS if it is going to list peak wattage in the title. That is a little misleading.Lastly, I assume the schematic (simple as it is) isn't listed or available for competitive reasons. That is a bummer.

this amplifier works great in my homebrew ham receiver to step up the audio output from headphones level to speaker level. As noted in another review, the audio input polarity is wrong and the amp still worked but with a hiss in the background. I switched plus and minus and hiss greatly reduced. the audio out polarity and dc volts polarity were correct as shown in the pictures. I removed the volume control and replaced it with a panel mounted better quality 50k pot.

Amazing what a little money can buy.

$12 for two 120 watt amps, a great deal if they work... It works fine and was easy to connect up if you like how the bass is really crackly! I hooked one up to a diced-up, DC, USB cable (and yes the cable worked) which supplied about 5 volts and 2 amps (10 watts) to the little amplifier, within the voltage range posted in the description. Hooked it up to the appropriate speaker, which worked fine connected to a different amplifier and then turned the music on. The treble and mid sounded fine, the stereo-to-mono mixing worked fine except when the mid-range driver went below about 100Hz, then it would get all crackly. I know that speaker works fine for the same music using a different amp so it had to be the amp. Thought one might be faulty, hooked it up to the other $6 amp and the same problem happened, fine treble and mid but crackly bass. These don't have a subwoofer output but they should still be able to handle those kinda-lower frequencies without crackling. Ultimately, these little amps would do the job if you don't need any bass ever, but most music has at least some tones below the 100Hz range. To sum it up, I returned them, got a refund, and ordered a different $35 amp which while still budget friendly, it worked. -3 stars for crackly bass, and leaving it at 2 stars for actually kinda-working at that low price. Hmm... I suppose these would work fine if you have it paired to a crossover, and hooked it up to the treble or mid output, just not bass.